I spent last weekend working in + exploring Richmond, Virginia. Once upon a time it was the capital of the “so-called Confederacy” but recent years have seen it trying to address the harms of its history. I’ve gathered just a few highlights in case you find yourself in this town with a little bit of time to wander.
In art: In a spectacular expression of forward thinking, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts commissioned Kehinde Wiley to design a sculpture in response to the parade of rebelling leaders on nearby Monument Avenue. Wiley created Rumors of War to, like much of his work, mimic the style of ‘traditional’ [white European] artists; in this case, the model was Frederick Moynihan’s statue of rebelling army figure J.E.B. Stuart, which at the time of Rumors of War’s unveiling in 2019 was still featured at the start of Richmond’s Monument Avenue. Through his art, Wiley celebrates the people who are too often overlooked - not only Black people but those who are doing the necessary everyday work in society; those in uniforms or street clothes not properly recognied or considered worthy of bronze statues or oil paintings.
“There is something moving in the culture. There’s something changing in these winds. I think we’re all fed up with a lot of things. I think artists have that unique responsibility to use that energy for something else. I’m tired of the destruction. I’m tired of the strife. I think we can do better.” ~ Kehinde Wiley, December 2019
Inside the museum, Wiley’s painting Willem van Heythuysenhangs in a gallery at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts amidst old school portraits of wealthy white folk.
Again, he uses the style and detail in the old paintings as inspiration for contemporary visions of Black subjects. We are treated to a new way of looking at people that incorporates things we might find familiar today - velour tracksuit, Timberlands here; Nike high tops and dreadlocks on Rumors of War - while retaining the rich, regal details of tapestry and pose. It is a challenge and a celebration, and I’m looking forward to seeing more, everywhere.
In shopping: When traveling, I seek out unique and locally owned shops to find souvenirs that will be especially memorable while also supporting residents in my host town. This time, I found The Hodgepodge just a few minutes away from our hotel. It is in a tiny basement portion of a house built in the early 1800s, filled with tables and shelves of new & vintage goodies. We arrived about half an hour before they were to open at noon, so we wandered down the road to look at other historic buildings and street art. Still, we returned before the owner had opened the gate so I had to stand awkwardly off to the side for a few more minutes. Once inside the quaint room, I browsed, mindful of how much space I had available in my suitcase (not much, unfortunately, so had to pass up some cute old dishware and giant matches). I did find a sweet collage bookmark and necklace from the same artist, Kat Cockerham, and the owner gave me a couple of postcards featuring a drawing of the Hancock-Wirt-Caskie house where the store resides.
In food: We visited a bunch of good restaurants in Richmond during our six day stay but these were standouts in terms of deliciousness & value.
A generous friend offered to pick me up on my day off for lunch & a little sightseeing. The ride started with an agonizing bee sting on my unsuspecting bare arm out the car window, but things improved properly after that.
Garnett’s is in The Fan, an old Victorian neighborhood shaped like a hand fan on the map and full of very confusing intersections that I’m grateful I didn’t have to navigate. I ordered a Croque Monsieur with French potato salad and could hardly carry on an intelligent conversation while I ate, it was all so delectable. I love that they have a Date Night Special…hopefully I can take advantage of that when I return in the fall.
Featuring my home state Lake Wenatchee apples print!
After a whirlwind solo morning walk before my work shift on Friday afternoon, I had just enough time to sit at the counter of Perly’s Delicatessan for a perfect turkey sandwich (the Goy Vey), housemade pickle, and dill potato salad. Then I bought a t-shirt, a reminder to order the matzoh ball soup next time.
My husband & I had a few hours to wander before our late afternoon flight on Tuesday, so we headed out for breakfast first. KAT’S had caught my eye when I was researching local restaurants - “Because bad food is dumb” - and it was on the way to the sights on our list so we stopped in. It’s inside an office building so the map guide’s directions were a little misleading but we figured it out, and just in time - I got the last Mari’s Special Breakfast Sandwich, which was egg/cheese/sausage/hashbrown on croissant perfection. Adding in its sassy chicken motif and Motown soundtrack, KAT’S set the tone for a marvelous last day.
In bonus art + food: Before our visit to the VMFA, my friend Jen and I perused the wonderful Julia Child: A Recipe for Life exhibit at the Virginia Museum of History & Culture next door. Lucky for me, it had just opened and will be on through the start of September. From its recreated TV kitchen to an interactive meal planning test to the history of foods & cooking and Child’s significance therein, it is a true learning delight. And then there are the endearing photos + love notes between Julia & her dear husband Paul. The exhibit will be traveling so keep an eye out wherever you are; it is worth seeing & savoring.
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Oooh, you give great recommendations. KAT'S sounds super funky and delish. I've never been to Richmond, but you make it feel urgent to head there.
I had so much fun with you!