what's good : anniversaries
Of mountains and marriages
In history: Forty-four years ago, when I was a surly preteen hanging out at my grandparents’ house on a Sunday morning, Mt. St. Helens erupted 250 miles away. The news had been reporting about the rumblings of "Loowit" or "Louwala-Clough" or “Lawetlat'la” - meaning "smoking mountain" - as the Chinook/Klickitat and Cowlitz tribes called her, and especially about the folks who remained working in or chose not to leave the area, though we up on Whidbey Island were only vaguely interested as it seemed so far away. But right about 8:30 am, as we got ready to leave for church, we felt a little shake through the house; I thought my younger cousin was roughhousing in the living room and reprimanded him from the kitchen. He popped his head around the corner, still and confused. We realized quickly from the radio news what really caused the rumble.
Suddenly our state was famous for something besides the Space Needle or Ted Bundy; people all over the country were awed, but also complaining about the traveling ash.
In art + poetry: A few years ago, Portland Art Museum hosted the Volcano! exhibit showcasing images of Mt. St. Helens from a variety of artists + media. As a Washingtonian and lover of history as well as art, I found these works to be standouts but please do watch the museum walk-through to see other powerful pieces & striking photography.
Ryan Molenkamp’s stunning panel set spanned a main wall upon entry and when I saw its title - “Vancouver! Vancouver! This is it!”, the shout of volcanologist David Johnston reporting the eruption that morning - I nearly wept in the middle of the gallery. Check out this chilling recording of Johnston’s announcement along with a short video showing images of him at his post a day earlier plus scenes of the mountain before, during, and after the event.
Writer Ursula Le Guin lived in a Portland home with a view of Mt. St. Helens and not only composed poetry & essays about the volcano, she also created some lovely, quiet pastels of it including "First snow and river fog," October 28, 1980, 8:30 a.m.
In startling contrast to Le Guin’s gentle fall view, Seattle artist Barbara Noah developed the ominous “Tag III” after traveling to the site later on May 18th. Her technique added some unsettling whimsy to the apprehension.
Dutch artist/emigre Henk Pander, a friend of Ursula Le Guin who sketched fantastic visions of her at Mt. St. Helens, brought another more casual viewpoint to the scene with his massive oil painting, "Eruption of Mount Saint Helen's from Cable Street."
Finally, the exhibit included one of Andy Warhol’s Vesuvius prints, his series depicting the eruption phases of that Italian mountain, seemingly evoked by Molenkamp’s vibrant panels a few decades later.
Here are some words1 reflecting on the before & after of our smoking lady volcano:
from Pearly Everlasting by Gary Snyder
The pristine mountain
just a little battered now
the smooth dome gone
ragged crown ...
the lake was shady yin—
now blinding water mirror of the sky
remembering days of fir and hemlock—
no blame to the magma or the mountain
and sit on a clean down log at the lake’s edge,
the water dark as tea.
I had asked Mt. St. Helens for help
the day I climbed it, so seems she did ...
If you ask for help it comes.
But not in any way you’d ever know—
thank you Loowit, lawilayt-lá, Smoky Mâ
gracias xiexie graceNow I live just beyond the foothills of Loowit/St. Helens and get to marvel every day at the blend of her awesome power and sustained beauty. Though I’m bummed to have never seen her up close before the eruption that destroyed her legendary symmetry, I’m glad to have the lingering visions of artists & writers. Plus a few minutes now and then at stoplights with a view on clear days.
In places: My husband & I have been married 31 years as of last week2 and, according to my custom of Celebrating Any/Everything I Want Because We’re Still Alive, we took ourselves to see the last night of Scorpions’3 residency in Vegas at the beginning of the month, went out for DQ Blizzards on actual anniversary night, then got lunch, massages, a swim, drinks, dinner, a movie, more drinks, & a room at the Edgefield Hotel. If you have never had the joyful luck/luxury of spending time at a McMenamins property, put it on your Life List. The McMenamin brothers began their quest as entrepreneurs a bit over 40 years ago when they lobbied the Oregon legislature to allow for distillers to sell their own alcohol on their premises, which led to the establishment of brewpubs in the state. The Edgefield was their first venture into historic site-renovation hospitality when they purchased the old Multnomah County “Poor Farm”/nursing home in Troutdale, Oregon. It was also one of our first anniversary excursions when we moved to the area in 1995. In short, the mostly family-owned business incorporates the history of spaces they buy into the naming, decor, landscaping, menus, and entertainment, and they use local artists & craftspeople to help create the engaging aesthetics. We love their whimsy, and of course I revel in reading about the places & people like the nerd I am, but everything is also comfortable and thoughtful and tasty and fun. Many of their destinations include a movie theater, most offer some kind of music, some have spas & soaking pools4 (the Crystal Hotel’s is saltwater + underground!), occasionally there’s a drag brunch or bingo, a UFO festival, or actual historical presentations. They have a Passport program to get discounts and earn prizes, which somehow I have failed to sign up for5 in these past 30 years, yet I’m still happy to visit them paying full price whenever I need a quirky getaway, with bonus art & history.
Watch Gary Snyder give a short talk about his connection to the mountain before reciting this poem in its entirety.
The 15th, also Emmitt Smith’s birthday, which is not [exactly] why I chose the date but still something to note. #GoCowboys
Still loving them, even though they look & sound a tad different after 40 years.
Once I was even able to buy a new cute & comfy bathing suit - from a local company! - at the front desk. #MAGICAL
Mainly because as much as I love a discount and/or prize, I really hate having to ask for extra things from service workers, like free tater tots or stamps in a booklet. Alas.